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Multi-tasking ingredients are a skin care routine gamechanger. Since most of us deal with more than one complexion issue at a time (hello acne and texture, hi redness and sensitivity) finding products that address multiple skin concerns can save time, money and stress. One ingredient that performs numerous jobs is azelaic acid, a gentle yet effective ally in the treatment of acne, rosacea and hyperpigmentation. Read on to find out more about how azelaic acid works and why it can be a great addition to your skin care routine.
Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring acid found in grains including barley, wheat and rye. It is commonly used in skin care for its antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and gentle exfoliating properties.
Highly effective in treating acne, rosacea and hyperpigmentation, it’s popular in skin care to help unclog pores, reduce redness and reduce melanin production, leading to a brighter skin tone and fading of post-blemish marks.
Azelaic acid can also prevent future breakouts and even clean acne-causing bacteria from pores while protecting skin and reducing the look of redness. And it can be used to treat acne scarring and active outbreaks since it encourages cell turnover and can minimize the appearance of texture on the skin.
But wait, there’s more! Azelaic acid benefits also include an improvement in the look of aging skin by reducing fine lines and wrinkles, and treating the look of scars by gently encouraging cell turnover, leading to quicker healing.
While the first line of defense for acne is often salicylic acid because it works quickly and gently, adding azelaic acid to the equation can supercharge your results. Not only does azelaic acid unclog pores, it also helps kill acne-causing bacteria on your skin, thereby reducing the length and severity of breakouts while preventing future ones. You can read more about acne and azelaic acid in this guide.
Hyperpigmentation, aka dark spots that can appear on the face as a result of sun exposure, hormonal changes or genetics, can be treated with azelaic acid. As gentle exfoliating agent, it helps to even out the look of the complexion while decreasing the appearance of dark spots.
Where azelaic acid really shines, though, is in treating post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, which is the darkening of skin that appears after inflammation (think scars from acne or eczema). It does this by inhibiting tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin production.
Because of its skin-soothing properties that help calm redness and sensitivity, azelaic acid is a popular go-to for rosacea because it works to decrease swelling and redness. Its mild exfoliating properties help unclog and refine pores, targeting bumps, breakouts and large pores, which are common with rosacea-prone skin. We explore the issue of rosacea and azelaic acid further in this guide.
By encouraging cell turnover and breaking down dead skin cells, azelaic acid is a great option to help reduce bumpy texture, closed comedones and roughness. Unlike harsher acids, it does so without significant irritation, making it a suitable choice for even the most sensitive skin.
While it doesn’t behave like a traditional exfoliant, azelaic acid can be classified as one and here’s why: As an acid, it breaks down the buildup of dead skin cells and unclogs pores while promoting cell turnover. That tracks with other exfoliants. But what sets it apart from other exfoliating acids (like AHA, BHAs and retinoids) is that it’s very mild and does not provide the intensive exfoliation of the more well-known acids like glycolic and salicylic.
What makes azelaic acid stand out among its peers is exactly what makes it so popular. The gentle way it helps keep pores clear and skin smooth without the irritation makes it suitable for sensitive skin and even effective at calming inflammation commonly associated with other exfoliating acids.
Rather than actively dissolving the buildup of dead skin cells, azelaic acid prevents it. This normalizes cell turnover, clearing the way for a clear, glowing complexion without any of the harshness often associated with chemical exfoliants.
And if you’re wondering whether azelaic acids can be used in conjunction with AHAs or BHAs, the answer is yes! In fact, this combination can be ideal for addressing the look of multiple skin issues, from bumps to uneven skin tone and any age-related concerns you might be struggling with. Just make sure you introduce them slowly to avoid irritation.
Can I use azelaic acid every day? Yes, it can be incorporated into a daily routine. However, keep in mind that although mild, it is still an acid, so it’s recommended you introduce it slowly to assess skin tolerance.
How long does azelaic acid take to work? Visible results typically appear in 4–8 weeks with regular use.
Can azelaic acid be combined with other acids? Yes, but introduce it slowly to avoid irritation.
Is azelaic acid good for acne scars? Yes, especially for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, which is the skin darkening that appears in the aftermath of inflammation like an acne or eczema flare.
Does azelaic acid lighten skin? It treats hyperpigmentation by inhibiting tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin production, without typically bleaching normal, evenly pigmented skin. In other words, it does not change your natural skin color but rather treats problematic areas of overactive melanin production.
Are you interested in adding azelaic acid to your skin care routine? Visit your nearest Eminence Organics Spa Partner to learn more or read the rest of our guides below:
Libby was the Digital Copywriter at Eminence Organic Skin Care. Obsessed with beauty and skin care since birth, she has tried every product and will lean into whatever beauty trend or viral hack TikTok tells her to (for research, obviously). She has written for a number of websit… Read more
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