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I’ve been writing about skin care for over a decade and have tried what feels like every product under the sun (special shout-out to my SPFs). Acids are a personal favorite of mine and have always been part of my routine. So when azelaic acid started blowing up my social media feed, seemingly out of nowhere, I had to find out more. It’s flown under the radar and somehow I’d missed this skin care ingredient altogether. Now that it’s having a moment, I decided to give it a try. I added it to my nightly skin care routine for four weeks to discover the benefits of azelaic acid and see what all the new hype is about.
Azelaic acid is one of the more versatile active ingredients and can be incorporated into both morning and evening skin care routines. After cleansing and toning, apply your azelaic acid product according to its directions, then follow with moisturizer or facial oil. If you're using it in the morning, finish with a broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher.
Azelaic acid can be used alongside ingredients like niacinamide, hyaluronic acid and ceramides. If you're also using stronger exfoliating acids like glycolic acid or potent retinoids, consider alternating them with azelaic acid when you're first introducing it to your routine. As always, pay attention to how your skin responds and adjust your routine if you notice excessive dryness or irritation.
I did a quick search and discovered azelaic acid in a peel that sounded like a good fit for my needs. The Clear Skin Willow Bark Exfoliating Peel is a deep cleansing, clarifying liquid solution that is used with dual-textured cotton rounds. It contains gentle salicylic acid to remove surface impurities and dirt from the skin, allowing the action of biosulphur and tomato extract to help balance sebum. Willow bark calms the look of skin while lilac and azelaic acid help to reduce the appearance of redness, inflammation and pore size, leaving the skin feeling clear, smooth and revitalized. Like I said, my kind of product.
One happy customer, Alexa S., calls it “game-changing for [the look of] acne scars,” saying in an online review: “I used this product at night and literally the next morning my skin was firmer and smoother. I'm already seeing a reduction in [the appearance of] my cystic acne scars, and I've had no irritation. Even with my sensitive skin, my face doesn't get too red after use. I will absolutely be using this product for years to come.”
I decided to use it at night after cleansing my skin with my favorite Stone Crop Cleansing Oil. I dispensed two pumps onto the textured cotton pads and applied it in circular motions all over my face and neck. I also applied it to my décolleté, since I’ve got lots of uneven skin tone there from some unfortunate sunburns in my earlier years.
I wasn’t sure what to expect but didn’t feel so much as a tingle. Just a light layer of liquid that dried down almost instantly, leaving my skin feeling moist and maybe the tiniest bit sticky, but in a good way. Some nights I would leave it at that, while other nights I would wait about 10 minutes and then apply a layer of my ride-or-die Rosehip Triple C+E Firming Oil before climbing into bed.
After about four weeks of using it, I’ve noticed a few changes. First of all, my skin feels clearer and looks clean. Maybe it’s because I haven’t had a single blemish or breakout since I introduced it to my evening routine, or it could be because I’m a sucker for a gentle exfoliation. My pores appear smaller and my skin just feels fresh and renewed. According to Carmen Castilla, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City: “In cosmetic formulas, azelaic acid acts as an exfoliant to promote skin cell turnover and unclog pores, and has mild anti-inflammatory properties as well.” Check, check, check.
My skin also feels softer and smoother than before. I notice my makeup going on a little more easily and staying put all day with no dry patches or streaking. I also feel like my other skin care is absorbing more evenly into my skin.
Another big takeaway is that my skin looks more even. The dark spots that have been bugging me for years look lighter and less noticeable — especially on my chest. It’s a subtle change but enough to keep me on this new skin care regimen to see where it goes.
Of course, I wouldn’t be doing my job if I didn’t call out the importance of wearing SPF while using azelaic acid. It’s always recommended to wear sunscreen when you go outside but be especially mindful to wear broad-spectrum sunscreen products when you’re working to improve hyperpigmentation.
All in all, I’m happy to have discovered this ingredient and I’m thrilled with the results so far. Again, it’s a slow and steady process, but worth the wait!
Azelaic acid is an effective ally in the treatment of acne, though it takes some time to start working and can come along with side effects, including skin burning, dryness and peeling. For these reasons, azelaic acid isn’t typically a dermatologist’s first choice for treating acne on its own, though it is often combined with other active ingredients like salicylic acid.
Salicylic acid softens a protein in your skin called keratin. This can help keep your pores from getting clogged, reducing the occurrence of pimples. When used in combination, salicylic and azelaic acids can be a dream team. Azelaic acid not only unclogs pores but also helps reduce acne-causing bacteria on your skin. Plus, it can even out your skin tone by neutralizing free radicals. Win, win.
Azelaic acid also treats rosacea by decreasing the swelling and redness of the skin. Its skin-soothing properties help to calm redness and sensitivity.
Hyperpigmentation results from the overproduction of melanin and appears as dark spots or patches on the skin, like the sun damage on my chest. Because it’s a gentle exfoliating agent, azelaic acid is a great option for evening out the look of your complexion and decreasing pigmentation by inhibiting an enzyme called tyrosinase, which plays a key role in melanin production.
According to PubMed, research indicates that azelaic acid has “profound anti-inflammatory and antioxidant benefits,” which contributes to many of the other positive effects of azelaic acid. Acne and rosacea are both forms of inflammation, so it’s no wonder that azelaic acid is a common go-to for treatment.
How long does azelaic acid take to work? Some people begin noticing improvements within about four weeks, while more noticeable results can take several weeks to months, depending on the concern being treated. Acne, hyperpigmentation and post-breakout marks typically fade gradually, so patience and regular use are key.
Can you use azelaic acid every day? Yes. Azelaic acid is considered gentle enough for daily use once your skin has adjusted. If you're new to the ingredient or have sensitive skin, start by applying it 2–3 times a week and gradually increase to once or twice daily as tolerated.
Is azelaic acid an exfoliant? Yes, azelaic acid is a mild and gentle exfoliant that works differently than AHAs and BHAs. It helps shed dead skin cells and clear pores, but its primary benefits are reducing inflammation, reducing acne-causing bacteria and fading dark spots.
Can you use azelaic acid with retinol? Yes, but introduce them gradually if you're prone to irritation. Some people alternate azelaic acid and retinol on different nights, while others can use both in the same routine after building tolerance. Follow with a moisturizer to help support your skin barrier.
Is azelaic acid good for rosacea? Yes. Azelaic acid is well known for its anti-inflammatory properties and is commonly recommended to help reduce the appearance of rosacea-related redness and bumps. Prescription-strength azelaic acid is often used as part of a dermatologist-directed rosacea treatment plan.
Are you interested in adding azelaic acid to your routine? Visit an Eminence Organics Spa Partner to find out which products are right for you, or explore the guide below to learn more:
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Libby was the Digital Copywriter at Eminence Organic Skin Care. Obsessed with beauty and skin care since birth, she has tried every product and will lean into whatever beauty trend or viral hack TikTok tells her to (for research, obviously). She has written for a number of websit… Read more
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