If you're using hydrating products and your skin still feels dry, the issue may be the type of products you’re applying. Ingredients like hyaluronic acid (HA) and squalane play different roles in hydration, and using them together can improve your results. Read on to find out how these two can coexist in the same routine.
Key Differences: Hyaluronic Acid Vs. Squalane
- HA and squalane hydrate your skin differently. HA draws water into the skin, while squalane helps seal it in, making them more effective when used together.
- Both ingredients are non-comedogenic and suitable for all skin types, including oily skin and acne-prone skin.
- Always apply hyaluronic acid to damp skin first, then apply squalane to lock in moisture.
What Is Squalane?
Squalane is a stable, skin-compatible lipid derived from squalene, which is found in the skin’s sebum. Lipids are naturally occurring fats in the skin that help form its protective barrier and prevent moisture loss. In skin care, squalane is used as a lightweight emollient that helps soften the skin and support the moisture barrier.
Unlike heavier oils, squalane absorbs quickly and helps reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL), making it useful for maintaining hydration in the skin. Because squalane is a derivative of squalene, which is produced by the human body, it is universally effective for all skin types.
This ingredient is great for:
- Dry Skin: It acts as a powerful moisturizer to lock in hydration, smooth flaky patches and prevent water loss.
- Oily & Acne-Prone Skin: As a light, non-comedogenic oil, it actually works to balance excess sebum production by signaling that your skin is hydrated.
- Sensitive Skin: Its anti-inflammatory properties help calm the look of redness and reduce irritation.
- Aging Skin: Natural lipids decline with age, and squalane's moisturizing and emollient properties help replenish what's lost. It also works well with actives like retinol by slowing its penetration, which decreases irritation.
What Is Hyaluronic Acid?
HA is a powerful humectant (meaning that it draws moisture into the skin) responsible for keeping your skin, joints and eyes healthy and hydrated. Also naturally produced by the body, it helps skin look and feel more moisturized, plump and firm. Able to hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water, this substance draws water from the deeper layers of our skin and the air, delivering and maintaining lasting hydration into the skin’s surface.
Loss of HA in your skin can cause visible signs of aging, such as fine lines and wrinkles. And since your skin’s stores of HA naturally deplete as you age (starting at age 18 with up to 50% gone by age 40!), supplementing with HA in your skin care becomes important. As well as aging, the loss of HA can come from sun exposure and environmental pollution, which can generate free radicals (oxidative stress) that can cause wrinkles and fine lines.
This ingredient is great for:
- Dry Skin: Because it’s such a powerful hydrator, it pairs like a dream with dry skin. HA draws moisture into the top layers of skin, restoring bounce and smoothing lines and wrinkles. It is especially important to apply it to damp skin.
- Oily & Acne-Prone Skin: Oily skin needs hydration, but it’s best to avoid using heavy creams when dealing with oil or breakouts. Because HA is water-based and oil-free, it delivers moisture without clogging pores or adding shine.
- Sensitive Skin: Again, because it’s natural, it’s incredibly gentle and won’t cause irritation or extra sensitivity. HA also helps support the skin barrier, making it less prone to irritation.
What They Do: Squalane Vs. Hyaluronic Acid
Where HA is a humectant (water magnet), squalane is an emollient (oil). Think of humectants as the "drink" of water, and emollients as the layer that keeps skin smooth and prevents that water from evaporating. Instead of adding moisture, emollients are used to help soften and smooth the skin. They work by filling in gaps between skin cells, which could otherwise cause the skin to have a rough and flaky appearance.
Squalane also acts as an occlusive, meaning it helps form a barrier that keeps water from escaping the skin's surface. It’s often paired with other oils in skin care to add even more hydration. Combining it with jojoba oil adds nourishing and hydration benefits, and elderberry seed oil adds essential fatty acids to protect the skin barrier even further.
When To Apply Hyaluronic Acid Vs. Squalane
HA can be applied both morning and night. In the morning, it plumps out fine lines for a smooth makeup base. At night, your skin goes into repair mode, making it an ideal time to replenish moisture lost during the day.
Due to its dry (for an oil) texture, squalane can be applied both in the morning and before bed. When used in the AM, it helps strengthen your natural moisture barrier against environmental stressors like air pollution and dry indoor heating. At night, squalane is a great “seal” for your HA and other actives. It helps your skin barrier recover from any actives you may be using (like retinol).
How To Use Hyaluronic Acid & Squalane Together
Like with many skin care routines, the order of application is important. As a general rule, work from thinnest (water-based) products to thickest (oil-based). When using these two ingredients together, HA always comes first and squalane seals it in.
Here’s a quick routine:
Cleanse skin and then lightly pat it dry so it remains slightly damp. Apply your hyaluronic acid serum directly onto damp skin. Our Strawberry Rhubarb Hyaluronic Serum works for all skin types. Applying it to damp skin gives the HA water to absorb into your skin so it doesn’t get pulled from the inside and dehydrate the skin. As a final step, pat a few drops of squalane oil gently into your skin to seal in the hydration.
Quadruple board-certified skin cancer and cosmetic surgeon, Dr. Hooman Khorasani explains why the order of application matters: “Hyaluronic acid is a humectant, meaning it draws water. When applied to damp skin, it binds to available surface water and helps increase hydration within the stratum corneum (outermost layer of the skin). However, humectants alone do not prevent water loss. That is where squalane comes in. Squalane is an emollient that helps reinforce the lipid barrier and reduce transepidermal water loss.”
These products work for all skin types. If you live in a more humid climate, use a little more HA. If you're in a dry or arid area, upping your squalane is recommended.
Can They Cause Breakouts or Irritation?
As mentioned, these oils work well with all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone. Both are non-comedogenic, meaning they won’t clog pores or exacerbate breakouts or oily skin.
As a plant-derived ingredient that closely resembles the skin's natural sebum, squalane also has unique properties that improve the look of irritated and red skin. Our Charcoal Black Seed Clarifying Oil contains squalane and other oils that help balance the complexion, prevent clogged pores and address the look of blemishes.
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Your Squalane Vs. Hyaluronic Acid Questions Answered
Can I use hyaluronic acid and squalane together? Yes. Hyaluronic acid and squalane work well together because they hydrate the skin in different ways. Apply hyaluronic acid first to attract moisture, then use squalane to lock it in.
Which is better for dry skin: hyaluronic acid or squalane? Both can benefit dry skin. Hyaluronic acid draws water into the skin, while squalane helps prevent moisture loss. Using them together often provides the best hydration results.
Can hyaluronic acid or squalane cause breakouts? Generally, no. Both ingredients are considered non-comedogenic and are suitable for acne-prone skin. Squalane is especially lightweight and unlikely to clog pores because it closely resembles the skin’s own sebum.
Should I apply hyaluronic acid to dry or damp skin? Hyaluronic acid works best on damp skin. Applying it after cleansing helps it bind to water on the skin's surface, maximizing hydration and preventing dehydration.
Can I use hyaluronic acid and squalane every day? Yes. Both ingredients are gentle enough for daily use and can be applied morning and night. They fit easily into most skin care routines and work well with other active ingredients.
Are you interested in finding out more about these ingredients? Visit your nearest Eminence Organics spa and request the Squalane Pro Multi-Oil, which can be used for massage and dermaplaning, and will leave the skin feeling nourished, balanced and hydrated.
