Acne can be confusing. It’s one of the most common complexion issues around, yet this four-letter word of the skin care world brings up a lot of questions. One we get asked a lot: What’s the difference between whiteheads, blackheads and pimples? All three are types of acne and each of them can be blamed on clogged pores, but how do we tell these skin issues apart and how can they be managed? Time to clear things up.
Key Takeaways
- Blackheads, whiteheads and pimples are all types of acne caused by clogged pores, but they differ in appearance and treatment protocols.
- Blackheads form when sebum and dead skin clog pores and oxidize, turning dark. Treat them with salicylic acid, clay and charcoal and to draw out impurities and refine the look of pores.
- Whiteheads are closed pores filled with oil and dead skin that haven’t oxidized. Ingredients like glycolic acid, azelaic acid and salicylic acid help unclog and smooth the look of skin.
- Pimples are inflamed acne lesions caused by bacteria, oil buildup and stress. Effective acne treatments should reduce inflammation, control sebum and promote clear, balanced skin.
What’s the Difference Between Blackheads, Whiteheads & Pimples?
All blemishes are not created equal. While they’re all equally annoying, their root causes can vary widely. Blackheads, whiteheads and pimples are all types of acne from clogged pores, commonly referred to as “comedones,” aka the small, bumpy blemishes that show up across the forehead, nose and/or cheeks. What sets them apart from each other is the way they differ in closure and inflammation. Open comedones like blackheads are exposed to air, closed comedones like whiteheads are not. Pimples are inflamed, red and swollen acne lesions caused by bacteria, excess oil and blocked pores. Both blackheads and whiteheads have the potential to become pimples.
What Are Blackheads?
Blackheads are a type of acne that shows up when sebum mixes with oil and dead skin cells to clog a pore or hair follicle. They appear as black dots (hence the name) due to a chemical reaction called oxidation. When the pore-clogging culprits are exposed to the air, that reaction turns the gunk black. It’s important to note that the black color of a blackhead is not dirt, but rather the result of a chemical reaction.
Raised above the skin and commonly found on the nose, forehead, chin, back and shoulders, blackheads are not typically painful or inflamed. They should be treated with care and can be safely removed by a spa professional. While it may be tempting, trying to remove them yourself by picking or squeezing them can cause infection and scarring. At home, blackheads are best treated with ingredients that help unclog the pores. Salicylic acid is a great option to gently exfoliate, while charcoal and clay are both known to help absorb excess oil and draw out impurities.
Blackheads are often confused with sebaceous filaments. Unlike blackheads, sebaceous filaments are not a clogged hair follicle that needs to be cleared away. Rather, they are particles released from oil glands and are a completely normal and healthy function of the skin. Everybody has sebaceous filaments, as they are found in every hair follicle. When they’re visible, they appear as tiny grey or beige spots that lie flat on the surface of the skin. They can’t (and shouldn’t) be removed, but certain ingredients can help minimize their appearance.
What Are Whiteheads?
Like blackheads, whiteheads form when pores get clogged with oil and dead skin cells. What sets them apart is that whiteheads are closed comedones, as they are sealed at the surface by a thin layer of skin. Because of this, the gunk inside is not exposed to the air and therefore does not oxidize.
Whiteheads are generally small and appear as bumps raised above the surface of the skin. They can have a slight redness around the base, but, like blackheads, they are non-inflammatory and usually not painful. They commonly appear on the hairline, cheeks, chin and jawline. As with blackheads, the best ingredients to treat whiteheads include gentle exfoliants like salicylic acid, glycolic acid and azelaic acid.
Whiteheads are sometimes mistaken for other white, raised bumps known as milia. Milia are tiny, hard lumps that often appear under the eyes or on the cheeks. They are small cysts filled with keratin — a type of protein found in skin tissue, hair and nail cells. When keratin gets trapped under the skin, tiny white bumps develop, often in small clusters. These bumps don't become red and inflamed like acne,but instead slowly build up under the skin and remain a white color. While a whitehead is also a white bump and a closed comedone (a pore blockage covered by the skin), whiteheads also contain sebum as opposed to the keratin found in milia.
What Are Pimples?
Pimples are inflamed acne lesions. Usually accompanied by redness, swelling or tenderness, these spots can show up on the face, neck, back, chest and shoulders and can be blamed on excess sebum production, the buildup of dead skin cells, clogged pores, bacteria, stress, hormonal fluctuations and lifestyle factors. The term “pimple” is sort of a catch-all for different types of acne. While blackheads and whiteheads are forms of acne, because they are generally not inflamed, they occupy a slightly different spot on the Venn diagram of breakouts. Both blackheads and whiteheads can become pimples but that only happens when the wall of the pore breaks (again, don’t try to pick them!) and inflammation increases, allowing bacteria in.
Pimples are generally classified as papules, pustules and nodules. The bulk of the action with pimples happens beneath the surface of the skin. This doesn’t mean that pimples are hidden, quite the opposite; they often appear red and inflamed above the surface but there’s a lot going on under the skin as well.
Let’s look a little deeper: Papules are small, hard, red bumps that are inflamed but don’t show any visible pus. Pustules are red bumps with a white or yellow pus-filled center (made up of white blood cells and fluid) and they are often tender. Nodules are hard, tender pimples embedded deeply under the skin. They are deep and inflammatory but usually felt more than seen.
Papules, pustules and nodules all have the same root cause — a pore clogged with oil, dead skin and bacteria — but they are all different types of acne and should be treated as such. Our Product Support Team suggests leaning into exfoliating products to help treat and prevent pimples. Salicylic acid, which is found in our Acne Advanced products, is a beta hydroxy acid that protects against acne breakouts by encouraging exfoliation and unclogging pores.
Alpha hydroxy acid is another go-to for pimples. It is a group of natural acids and chemical exfoliants that loosen the bonds that hold dead skin cells in place. AHAs help exfoliate the top superficial layer of the skin, leaving you with smoother-looking texture and clearer-looking pores.
Sulfur is another gentle-yet-effective treatment for acne. As a drying and antibacterial agent, it removes excess oils and kills bacteria, reducing inflammation and alleviating uncomfortable symptoms. This dual action helps prevent the formation of new acne and stops inflammation before it starts.
Blackheads, Whiteheads & Pimples: All Your Questions Answered
What is the main difference between blackheads, whiteheads and pimples?
Blackheads and whiteheads are clogged pores, while pimples are inflamed acne lesions usually accompanied by redness, swelling and tenderness.
What exactly are blackheads and how do they form?
Blackheads form when oil and dead skin clog a pore and are exposed to air, causing oxidation that turns the blockage dark on the skin’s surface.
How are whiteheads different from blackheads?
Whiteheads are closed clogged pores. Because they are covered by a thin layer of skin, the trapped oil and dead cells are not exposed to air and do not darken.
What are pimples and what types are there?
Pimples are inflamed acne lesions, including papules, pustules and nodules, that form when pores clogged with oil and bacteria trigger deeper redness, swelling and tenderness.
How can I treat blackheads, whiteheads and pimples effectively?
Use gentle exfoliating acids, sulfur and clay to draw out impurities and refine pores, plus anti-inflammatory skin care and lifestyle habits to reduce bacteria, oil and future breakouts.
Are you dealing with clogged pores or other blemishes and not sure how to treat them? Visit your nearest Eminence Organics Spa Partner for help identifying and treating your specific skin issues.
